Men's Style Essentials
Men's Starter Wardrobe Checklist: The 12 Pieces to Own
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This is a starter wardrobe for work, dates, and weekends, built from basics that mix and match. Buy in the order below and you will have outfits sooner. Each section also tells you how to check the fit in plain terms.
Two dark jeans and one pair of chinos
Pants carry the outfit, so start here. Buy two pairs of dark jeans in indigo or black, with no rips and no heavy fading. Add one pair of chinos in navy, olive, or khaki.
Fit check for pants:
- The waist should sit at your natural waist, roughly at the belly button, and stay up without a belt, or with a belt pulled one notch tighter than loose.
- You should be able to pinch about an inch of fabric at the thigh.
- The legs should taper gently from knee to ankle. Skinny is not required.
- The hem should land at the ankle or break slightly on the shoe. A small fold of fabric at the shoe is fine; a pile of fabric is too long.
Straight or slim-straight cuts suit most body types.
Rotate the three pairs through the week, and wash jeans less often than other clothes to keep their color.
White and light blue oxford shirts
An oxford button-down works for office days, dates, and layered weekends. Buy one in white and one in light blue.
Fit check for shirts:
- The shoulder seam sits at the edge of your shoulder bone, not hanging down your arm.
- You can fasten the collar and slip one finger inside.
- When you raise your arms, the shirt should not pull out of your pants.
- Sleeves end at the wrist bone, with about a quarter inch of cuff showing under a jacket.
- The body should not billow. If you can pinch more than 3 to 4 inches of loose fabric at the side of your torso, size down or get it tailored.
Wear it tucked for work and untucked for the weekend. An untucked shirt should end around mid-zipper, not at the knees.
Iron or steam it while still slightly damp from the dryer, and hang it up right away to keep wrinkles low.
Plain tees in white, grey and navy
Three plain crew-neck tees give you layers for almost everything. Choose a mid-weight cotton that does not show through, and avoid logos and loud graphics for now.
Fit check for tees:
- Shoulder seams on your shoulder points
- Sleeves ending halfway between shoulder and elbow, snug on the upper arm but not tight
- Body length that covers your belt when you raise your arms, ending around the middle of your fly
- A neckline that sits flat against your collarbone and does not stretch into a wave
Buy a second set of each color once you know the size and brand that fit well. Cotton can shrink, so wash cold and air-dry or tumble dry on low. Check the care label, and buy slightly long if the tag says the fabric may shrink.
White tees wear out fastest. Replace them once they yellow or go thin.
One overshirt and one jacket
These two give you a layer for every season. An overshirt is a thick, shirt-style layer you wear open over a tee, usually in cotton twill, flannel, or canvas. Pick olive, navy, or brown.
For the jacket, a plain bomber, a field jacket, or a denim jacket all work. Avoid anything too trendy. Choose a color you can wear with all your pants.
Fit check for layers:
- You should be able to wear a shirt underneath and still move your arms forward without feeling tight in the back.
- Shoulder seams should land on your shoulder.
- The jacket hem should stop around the belt or just below it.
- Sleeves should cover the wrist but not the hand.
Try them on over the thickest shirt you plan to wear. Zip or button them, then hug yourself. If the back pulls, size up.
White sneakers and brown boots
Two pairs of shoes cover most days. White leather or leather-look sneakers go with jeans, chinos, and shorts. Brown boots, such as a chukka or a plain leather boot, dress up jeans and work with chinos.
Fit check for shoes:
- Leave about a thumb's width of space between your longest toe and the front of the shoe.
- Your heel should not slip more than a little when you walk.
- Try them on in the afternoon, when your feet are a bit larger.
- Wear the socks you plan to use.
Keep sneakers clean with a damp cloth and a soft brush. Condition leather boots every few months, and use shoe trees or stuffed paper to keep their shape.
Match your belt to your shoes on dressy days: brown with brown.
What you'll need
- Two pairs of dark jeans
- One pair of chinos
- Two oxford shirts, white and light blue
- Three plain tees, white, grey, and navy
- One overshirt
- One jacket
- White sneakers
- Brown boots
- A tape measure to check your own sizes
- A leather belt in brown
Common mistakes
- Buying pants that are too long or too baggy at the ankle.
- Choosing shirts with shoulders that hang past your own.
- Picking trendy pieces before the basics.
- Not trying clothes on while sitting, raising your arms, and walking.
- Skipping the care label and shrinking a good tee.
Quick answers
What should a man buy first for a basic wardrobe?
Start with two dark jeans and one pair of chinos, then add shirts and tees. Pants and tops that fit well give you the most outfits for your money.
How should a button-down shirt fit?
The shoulder seam should sit at your shoulder edge, the collar should take one finger, and sleeves should end at the wrist. The body should not billow.
How long should jeans be?
Jeans should end at the ankle or break slightly on top of the shoe. Avoid a pile of fabric at the shoe, which makes legs look shorter.